A Step-By-Step Guide on Derma rolling and Its Benefits

5 min read

A Step-By-Step Guide on Derma rolling and Its Benefits

What would you say if we told you that by rolling needles on your face, you can slow down aging? Well, you can through a process called micro needling. 

The process is used in a beauty treatment called derma rolling, and it can be done at home easily. Think of it as an effective beauty hack that gives your skin new life in a couple of days. 

You are probably wondering about getting it done at a dermatologist’s office, right? Well… even though the results will be visible right after the treatment, it will cost you a lot more! Lastly, to answer your question that you have been meaning to ask for a long time, “Does derma rolling hurt?

No! You might feel a slight pinch, which will be nowhere near painful.

Let’s understand how derma rolling at home works:

What Is Derma rolling?

At-home derma rolling is done through a handheld, manual roller with several rows of tiny needles on it. The needles puncture the skin, inducing elastin and collagen that help fade acne scars, improve skin texture, skin products to penetrate deeply. When the derma roller is used along with the right moisturizer or serum, it works more effectively at reducing dark spots, rough patches, and scars. 

Derma rollers come with different needle lengths and, therefore, must be chosen wisely based on your skin concern. Below is a chart that lists down the derma roller’s needle length according to the skin problem:


Needle Length in Millimeters

Shallow Acne Scars

1.0 mm

Stretch Marks

1.5 mm to 2.0 mm (Do Not Use 2.0 mm for Home)

Skin Discoloration

0.2 mm to 1.0 mm (Increase Size Slowly)

Surgical Scars

1.5 mm

Deep Acne Scars

1.5 mm


0.25 mm to 0.5 mm

Enlarged Pores

0.25 mm to 0.5 mm

Sagging or Sun Damaged Skin

0.5 mm to 1.5 mm (Alternate Between Sizes for Better Results)


0.5 mm to 1.5 mm

Uneven Skin Texture or Tone 

0.5 mm


Benefits of Derma rolling

Collagen is a protein that is the main building block that maintains the health of your ligaments, tendons, muscles, bones, hair, and skin. It gives your skin a youthful glow and plum by preventing skin sagging that comes with aging. 

Elastin too is a structural protein that benefits your skin. It is 1000x more flexible compared to collagen and gives your skin tissue elasticity. Without elastin, your skin can become susceptible to inflammation and damage that will lead to its breakdown.

With the help of a derma roller, you can boost the production of these two proteins that will help with skin problems, such as:

  • Acne
  • Scars
  • Wrinkles
  • Skin discoloration
  • Thin skin

Before & After using Derma roller

One of the hidden benefits of this beauty device is 
derma rolling stretch marks. Yes, you heard that right! With the right needle length and proper movements, you can get rid of your stretch marks. Your skin requires a serum that will help tighten and improve your skin. The best products are hyaluronic acid and Vitamin C. Always start with the smallest needle length derma roller and progress to larger needle lengths gradually. You will be able to see the derma roller before and after-
effects if you prep your skin by cleansing and exfoliating.

Stretch Marks Before & After Using Derma roller

As for how often to derma roll, here’s another chart according to needle length:

Needle Length in Millimeters

How Many Times

0.25 mm

Alternate day

0.5 mm

Start with once a week and then progress to thrice

1.0 mm

After every 10 days

1.5 mm

Once in 4 weeks 

2.0 mm

After every 6 weeks (since 2.0 mm needle length is handled best by professionals, get it done by a dermatologist.)


Step-by-Step Use of Derma rolling

Derma rolling requires some preparation to avoid causing any additional skin problems. Since you will be creating tiny puncture wounds in your skin, you need something that will help heal them, and at the same time, penetrate the skin to produce collagen and elastin. Hence, it should be done properly to prevent any side effects. Below is the process explained step-by-step:

Step 1: Prep Your Skin

Use a gentle exfoliator or cleanser to remove any dirt from your skin. This will prepare the skin surface for maximum absorption.

Step 2: Choose a Serum

Once you have cleaned your skin, choose a serum and apply two layers of it. The main point of derma rolling is to allow a product to penetrate the skin deeply for maximum efficacy. As mentioned above, the right products for this are hyaluronic acid, peptides, and stem cells. The latter is preferred by most people for derma rolling at home as it reduces wrinkles and fine lines by alleviating dry skin.

Step 3: Use Your Derma roller

Depending on your skin problem, choose your derma roller and gently roll it on your skin in the horizontal direction. Do not roll back and forth because that will create track marks on your skin. Repeat at least 6 times in one direction on one area and then cover the same area with vertical and diagonal movements. 

Step 4: Apply Another Serum

In case you are wondering what to use after derma roller, you have got two options: a serum with retinol or a moisturizer. This former ingredient boosts the production of collagen, which works quite well for this treatment. However, use retinol only at night. If you are derma rolling in the morning or evening, apply the latter instead.

Step 5: Clean Your Derma roller 

This brings us to the end of your first derma rolling session. Clean it with rubbing alcohol, and store it in a plastic bag. A derma roller should be replaced after 10 to 15 uses.

So, what do you think? Ready to let your skin get kissed by dozens of needles? We can assure you that it won’t hurt. However, we cannot say the same for derma rolling done by a dermatologist. Still, it won’t cross your normal pain tolerance level. Try derma rolling at home first to see how it affects your skin, and once you see the results, you can think about getting a professional treatment once a year.